By Rajshree Mudaliar
For The Union-Tribune
How can you best enjoy papaya? As a tropical fruit or in its raw form as a savory dish? The simple answer to this dilemma is this: If your papaya tastes like dessert, eat it raw. If it tastes like a confused squash, cook it.
Beyond its culinary versatility, green (unripe) papaya also has fascinating functional properties. It contains papain, a powerful proteolytic (protein-digesting) enzyme. When used as a meat tenderizer, it softens tough muscle fibers by breaking down collagen and elastin, which hold the muscle together. In Indian cuisine, mutton (goat meat) is often marinated in papaya paste to tenderize it before cooking with rice, spices and saffron to make flavorful biryani.
Green papaya is also a key ingredient in a variety of fresh and flavorful dishes across different cultures. In Thailand, Som Tum — a vibrant, tangy green papaya salad — is delicious because of its bold flavors. Vietnam’s Gỏi Đu Đủ offers a delightful twist by pairing shredded green papaya with dried beef. Laos’ Tam Mak Hoong is similar to Som Tum but often packs a spicier punch.
Meanwhile, in Filipino cuisine, green papaya adds a subtle sweetness to the chicken soup known as Tinola. In South Indian cuisine, raw papaya is used to prepare Kootu, a flavorful lentil stew, and is often served with steaming hot rice with a generous dollop of ghee on top.
Green Papaya Kootu (Lentil Stew) With Parsley and Cilantro
The delicate balance of earthy lentils and spices with the subtle sweetness of green papaya makes this comforting stew a wholesome addition to any meal. Pair it with steamed rice or soft rotis (Indian bread) to enjoy this delicious dish. Sometimes, even an unripe fruit can discover its true flavor with a little heat!
INGREDIENTS
1 medium green (unripe) papaya, peeled, deseeded and diced
Water, as needed
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
Salt (to taste)
1 cup moong dal (split petite yellow lentils)
2 tablespoons coconut oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 tsp channa dal (split chickpeas)
1 tsp urad dal (black gram)
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1/4 teaspoon of hing (asafetida) (optional)
1 sprig curry leaves
1 small onion, finely chopped
2-inch piece of ginger, julienned
2 to 3 small green chiles, slit
2 tomatoes, chopped
Small bunch of parsley, chopped
1/2 cup of coconut, grated
2 tablespoons of ghee (optional)
Cilantro, for garnish
DIRECTIONS
1: Peel, deseed and cut the papaya into small cubes. Boil it with a small amount of water, turmeric and a pinch of salt. (You’ll add more salt later with the other ingredients.)
2: Rinse the moong dal thoroughly. In a pressure cooker or saucepan, combine the moong dal and 1 cup of water. Cook until soft, then mash lightly and set aside.
3. Heat coconut oil in a large pan over medium heat.
4. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter.
5. Stir in channa dal, urad dal, cumin seeds, asafetida (optional) and 6 to 8 curry leaves. Saute for a few seconds until aromatic.
6. Add the chopped onion and saute until golden brown.
7. Toss in julienned ginger and green chiles. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
8. Add chopped tomatoes and cook until they soften and break down.
9. Stir in the cooked papaya, mixing well with the spices.
10. Pour in the cooked moong dal and add a little water to adjust the consistency.
11. Add salt to taste.
12. Add chopped parsley and let the stew simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, allowing the flavors tocombine.
13. Stir in the grated coconut and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes.
14. Add ghee (optional), if using.
15. Garnish with fresh cilantro leaves.
16. Serve hot with steamed rice or roti (Indian bread).
Substitutions: Coconut oil can be replaced with olive oil or canola oil. Fresh grated coconut can be substituted with frozen grated coconut or unsweetened desiccated coconut. This same recipe can be used to prepare any type of gourd or squash.
Recipe from Rajshree Mudaliar.
Mudaliar is a retired educator and a member of the Community Advisory Board of The San Diego Union-Tribune. She offers a step-by-step guide to preparing Green Papaya Kootu (Lentil Stew) on her YouTube channel, From My Indian Kitchen to Yours. She is the founder and former president of House of India and lives in Carmel Valley.
